Tofino Visitor’s Guide: The Place where the Ocean Begins

On the West Coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada is a land of sprawling sand beaches, wind-blown forests, and endless Salal. Home to the Nuchalnuth peoples and a few small white villages, this is a surfer’s heaven, a boater’s paradise, and a retreat from the fast pace of modern living. I spent the beautiful summer of 2021 working in the small town of Tofino, so I have a few insights to offer as you plan your next escape to the sea.

How to Get There

Once you’ve arrived in Tofino, the area is easily accessed either by car or bike (which can be rented here). However getting there is a little bit harder. Highway 4 starts in Qualicum beach and offers a somewhat nail-biting drive to Tofino for those not used to our winding BC roads. TofinoBus offers service to Tofino from Victoria and Nanaimo, and is likely the best option for those who are travelling car-free. The final option is by air from Vancouver or Victoria by plane or float plane.

What to Do

Surf

Tofino is Canada’s Surf capital and offers endless opportunities to get into the waves. Wether you’re a true beginner or a seasoned pro there are no shortage of surf shops dying to rent you a setup or offer you a lesson. Don’t let the cold water dissuade you, they’ve also got wetsuits of varying thicknesses to make sure you stay toasty warm out there, even if you, like me, are thermally challenged. A couple of my favourite surf shops are Live to Surf, the first shop to set up in the area, or Surf Sister who specialize in getting women out in the waves.

Sunbathe

It’s true that Tofino isn’t known for her sun, but it can still get pretty toasty in July and August. And Tofino’s long, sandy beaches are perfect for it! There’s nothing I love more than burying my toes in the warm sand and cracking open a good book (or beer) while the die-hards stay out in the waves. It’s not Hawaii, but in my opinion it’s better. Cox Bay and Chesterman beaches are always popular, but if you’re not looking to surf and you want to get away from the crowds then Middle Beach offers a hidden haven.

Kayak to Meare’s Island

Seeing the incredible old-growth forest on Meare’s island is an absolute must while you’re in Tofino. I remember leaving the first time wondering if I hadn’t somehow ruined every other forest for myself by learning what true old growth looked like. The forest was saved when the local Ahousat people bought the forestry rights after prolonged anti-logging campaigning by the local indigenous population and local environmentalists.

There are a lot of boats you can take to go to the island, and a lot of kayak trips you can go on in the Harbour. I recommend this one because the insight that the guides offer to the island is indispensable in terms of understanding what makes the forest unique. If you take a motor-boat out to the island you’ll miss a lot. The guides will also talk you through our native marine ecosystem and can keep you up to date on what’s happening in town!

Go Whale or Bear Watching

There is no end to the life in the Clayoquot Sound that borders Tofino! Wether you want to go out searching for Orca in the open ocean, or see the bears feeding at low tide from the safety of a boat, the opportunity to see wildlife in it’s natural habitat while accompanied by a guide is invaluable! I recommend taking a zodiak out for a more immersive experience. There are lots of great companies in town but for smaller tours in a family and locally owned establishment I recommend this one.

Hike Lighthouse Loop

On the other end of the road from Tofino is the town of Uclulet. Stunning in its own right, Ucluelet boasts what I think is one of the best nature walks in the area. The Lighthouse Loop takes you through native wetlands, along the coastline, and to the picturesque lighthouse! A short walk that you can finish by grabbing a pint at the Ukie Brewery.

Where to Eat

Wildside Grill: In the Beaches Complex just off the highway is the wonderful wild side grill. Now I’m not licensed to give out awards, but this is the best salmon burger on the coast. If you’re not a fish fan, they have you covered with a variety of other burgers as well.

Long Beach Lodge: With a wonderful bar program and a winning kitchen overlooking the stunning Cox Bay, the always classy Long Beach Lodge rarely disappoints.

Wolf in the Fog: If you have some time to book ahead, the prize for best bar program definitely goes to the always popular Wolf in the Fog in the town centre. However don’t show up on the night of expecting a table, this place books up far in advance.

Shed: If you’re looking for a local favourite and a margarita, Shed is right across the street from Wolf in the Fog and offers a relaxed atmosphere, a huge patios, and great views of the harbour and the centre of town.

Places to Stay

Ballin’ on a Budget: the HI Hostel or The Maq

Out in the Woods: Bella Pacifica

For those who Appreciate the Finer Things: Long Beach Lodge